Introduction to Cork
Cork - The Rebel County is Ireland's largest county and some might say it real capital. Cork is the capital of Munster and is a pure gem in Ireland's crown.
A Brief History of Cork
Much of what is now county Cork was once part of the Kingdom of Deis Muin (South Munster), anglicised as "Desmond", ruled by the MacCarthy Mor dynasty. After the Norman Invasion in the 12th century, the MacCarthy clan were pushed westward into what is now West Cork and County Kerry. The north and east of Cork were taken by the Hiberno-Norman Fitzgerald dynasty, who became the Earl of Desmond. Cork City was given an English Royal Charter in 1318 and for many centuries was an outpost for Old English culture.
The Fitzgerald Desmond dynasty was destroyed in the Desmond Rebellions of 1569-1573 and 1579-83. Much of county Cork was devastated in the fighting, particularly in the Second Desmond Rebellion. In the aftermath, much of Cork was colonised by English settlers in the Plantation of Munster.
In 1491 Cork played a part in the English Wars of the Roses when Perkin Warbeck, a pretender to the English throne, landed in the city and tried to recruit support for a plot to overthrow Henry VII of England. The mayor of Cork and several important citizens went with Warbeck to England but when the rebellion collapsed they were all captured and executed. Cork's nickname of the 'rebel city' originates in these events. The nickname was later applied to the whole county.
In 1601 the decisive Battle of Kinsale (Irish: Cath Cionn tSáile) took place in County Cork, which was to lead to English domination of Ireland for centuries. Kinsale had been the scene of a landing of Spanish troops to help Irish rebels in the Nine Years War (1594-1603). When this force was defeated, the rebel hopes for victory in the war were all but ended.
County Cork was officially created by a division of the older County Desmond in 1606.
In the 19th century, Cork was a centre for the Fenians and for the constitutional nationalism of the Irish Parliamentary Party.
The county was a hotbed of guerrilla activity during the Irish War of Independence 1919-1921. Three Cork Brigades of the Irish Republican Army operated in the county and another in the city. Prominent actions included the Kilmichael Ambush in November 1920 and the Crossbarry Ambush in March 1921. The activity of IRA flying columns, such as the one under Tom Barry in west Cork, was recently popularised in the Ken Loach film The Wind That Shakes The Barley. The centre of Cork city was razed to the ground by the British Black and Tans, in December 1920 as were many other towns and villages around the county.
During the Irish Civil War (1922-23), most of the IRA units in Cork sided against the Anglo-Irish Treaty. From July to August 1922 they held the city and county as part of the so called Munster Republic. However, Cork was taken by troops of the Irish Free State in August 1922 in the Irish Free State offensive, that included both overland and seaborne attacks. For the remainder of the war, the county saw sporadic guerrilla fighting until the Anti-Treaty side called a ceasefire and dumped their arms in May 1923.
Michael Collins, legendary IRA leader in the War of Independence, was born near Clonakilty and assassinated during the civil war in Béal na Bláth, both in West Cork.
Areas of Interest in Cork
Coppingers Court
The ruins of Coppingers Court, a 4 story house, consist of a central block flanked by two fortified square blocks on the east side and with another in the centre of the west side. There are some mullioned windows on the top floor of the western side while there are well preserved turrets on the southern side and at the north western corner just below the parapets. Coppinger surrendered his estate to James II in 1616 and had them regranted to him the following day.
Desmond Castle / Wine Museum
Desmond Castle was built by Maurice Bacach Fitzgerald, the 9th Earl of Desmond, c.1500. A good example of an urban tower house, the castle consisits of a keep with storehouses to the rear and domestic offices on the first and second floors.
Originally built as a Custom House, Desmond Castle has also served as an ordnance store, prison and workhouse. It was occupied by the Spanish in 1601 during the Battle of Kinsale. In the succession of European wars in the 17th and 18th centuries, the castle was used as a place of confinement for French and Spanish prisoners of war. During the Great Irish Famine, (1845-1850) Desmond Castle was used as a workhouse and up to 200 people were housed there. It was declared a National Monument in 1938.
Since 1997, Desmond Castle has housed the International Museum of Wine. This exhibition documents the fascinating story of Ireland's wine links with Europe and the wider world.
Whiddy Island, Wildlife retreat in the warm Gulf Stream
Whiddy Island lies in beautiful Bantry Bay, just a short ferry crossing from Bantry town making it a popular spot for day trippers. The island's climate, like other parts of South West Cork, is influenced by the Gulf Stream creating a unique ecology and wealth of wildlife. Beautiful red and purple fuchsia is abundant on the island throughout the summer and autumn and the common Butterwort is also found here - one of the few 'insect eating' plants found in Ireland.
It's easy to spend a quiet afternoon rambling Whiddy's fields or birdwatching at the island's two lakes.
Cork Heritage Park
Cork Heritage Park tells the story of Cork's maritime history. It also covers the history of the family estate of a Cork Quaker family, the Pikes. The Burning of the city of Cork is dealt with.
The various modes of transport in Corks history are brought to the public eye, through the story of tram, train and bus.
Fota Arboretum & Gardens
Fota Arboretum and Gardens contains an extensive collection of trees and shrubs extending over an area of approx. 11 hectares and includes features such as an Ornamental Pond, Victorian Orangery, Fernery and Walled Pleasure Gardens. The collection was started by the Smith - Barry family from the middle of the 19th century onwards.
In 1996 its care was transferred to the State. Since that time there has been ongoing restoration, regeneration and general upgrading of the Arboretum and Gardens. The Victorian Orangery has been fully restored and contains a fine collection of contemporary plants. As in times past, contacts have been established with institutions and gardens both in Ireland and the UK. These have proved invaluable in the sourcing of rare and unusual plants. Some of the plants received are part of international conservation programmes ie. South American conifers, which are thriving within the environs of Fota.
Over the past few years the walled Fruit & Vegetable Garden has been converted to a formal Rose Garden. The original Pleasure Gardens are presently undergoing restoration.
Skibbereen Heritage Centre
Skibbereen Heritage Centre, located in the beautifully restored Old Gasworks building and featuring two main exhibitions.
The Great Famine Exhibition commemorates this period of Irish history using the latest in multimedia technology. Skibbereen was one of the worst affected areas in Ireland, as testified by the mass graves, where almost 10,000 people are buried.
The Lough Hyne Visitor Centre reveals the unique nature of this marine lake, Ireland's first Marine Nature Reserve. Find out about the history, folklore and formation of this renowned natural phenomenon with a multi-lingual audio-visual.
Cathedral Of Saint Mary And Saint Anne
The Cathedral is the Mother Church of the Dioceses of Cork and Ross, known locally as the North Cathedral. It was dedicated in 1808. The building is a combination of sandstone and limestone dressings, and is of early neo gothic revivalist style. Guided tours available on request.
Franciscan Friary Timoleague
These are the ruins of a 14th century Franciscan Friary. The Franciscan Friary was founded, according to the Annals of the Four Masters, by McCarthy Riabach, Lord of Carbery, in AD 1240. Other sources credit William Barry, Lord of Ibane, a member of the family who built Timoleague Castle in 1215, with its foundation c.1320 AD. Alterations and additions were carried out during the 14th and 15th centuries, chief amongst these being the square Gothic tower erected by Edmond de Courcey, Bishop of Ross and financed by his nephew James, Lord Kinsale. The Library, dormitory and infirmary were also erected by Bishop de Courcey.
Traditional Music and Craic in Cork